How to Read Fabric Weight (and Why It Matters for Your Projects)
There was a time you could wander into your favorite fabric store, pull down a bolt, and tell everything you needed to know just by rubbing the cloth between your fingers. You could feel if it would drape like a dream or hold its shape through a dozen washings. But as more and more brick-and-mortar fabric stores close, most of us are now buying fabric online. And while that’s convenient, it means we’re often left guessing about one key thing we can’t feel through a screen: fabric weight.
Photo by Lara Jameson on Pexels
Why Fabric Weight Matters
Fabric weight tells you how heavy—or dense—a fabric is. It’s measured either in grams per square meter (GSM) or ounces per square yard (oz/yd²). The higher the number, the thicker and heavier the fabric tends to be. A lightweight fabric like lawn or voile might be around 70–100 GSM—soft and airy, great for blouses, linings, and handkerchiefs. Medium-weight fabrics like quilting cottons and linen blends usually sit between 130–200 GSM. Heavyweights—canvas, denim, and upholstery cloth—often reach 250 GSM and up. The problem is, when a product listing simply says medium weight cotton, that could mean wildly different things depending on the shop. Without context, it’s easy to buy what you think is the perfect tablecloth fabric and end up with something that’s barely thicker than a pillowcase.
Lightweight Fabrics (70–100 GSM)
Lightweight fabric is ideal for draping, as in this blouse.
Lightweight fabrics are all about drape and breathability. Think of the way a cotton voile blouse floats on a warm day or how a soft lawn dress moves when you walk through the garden. These fabrics are perfect for summer clothing—blouses, skirts, nightgowns, or breezy curtains that catch the morning light. They also layer beautifully for linings and delicate home accents where a heavier fabric would feel stiff. The key with lightweight cloth is its softness—it hangs instead of holds, making it a dream for projects meant to move.
Medium-Weight Fabrics (130–200 GSM)
Sewing an apron requires medium-weight fabric that stands up to lots of wear and washing.
This is your everyday workhorse category. Medium weights like cotton-linen blends, poplin, or quilting cotton are sturdy enough to hold shape but still soft enough to sew and press easily. They’re ideal for aprons, tea towels, napkins, and table runners—anything that needs a bit of substance but not bulk. Medium weights also make lovely dresses and shirts for cooler months, especially when you want structure without heaviness. They’re the balance point between comfort and durability—the fabric weight most of us reach for again and again.
Heavyweight Fabrics (250 GSM and Up)
Heavyweight fabrics hold up to lots of use, like upholstery or work overalls.
When you need something that stands its ground, heavyweight fabrics are the answer. Canvas, denim, duck cloth, or twill have the heft for projects that take wear: market totes, tool aprons, placemats, cushion covers, and upholstery. They protect, carry, and last. These fabrics hold crisp seams, making them perfect for structured projects where you want form to follow function. A heavyweight fabric won’t drape like voile—it holds its own shape—which is exactly what makes it dependable.
Buying Fabric Online Without Regret
Since we can’t touch before we buy, learning to read fabric weight is the next best thing to having a swatch book in your hand. Here’s how to keep your confidence (and your cart) steady: 1) Check the GSM or ounces. Use a conversion chart to translate between the two. 2) Compare to what you know. If your favorite quilting cotton is around 150 GSM, you now have a baseline for other purchases. 3) Watch for context clues. Terms like “sheer,” “structured,” or “drapey” help narrow things down. 4) Lean on trustworthy sellers. If a store lists exact weights and offers usage suggestions, that’s a sign they care about your results—not just the sale.
How TrueWoven Helps You Choose
At TrueWoven, every pattern in our collections lists the recommended base cloth and the corresponding fabric weight. We do this because understanding the weight helps you match the right fabric to the right project—before you ever cut your first piece. A 150 GSM cotton-linen blend may be perfect for tea towels or aprons, while our heavier 250 GSM cotton canvas is built for market totes and placemats that can handle daily use. In our latest Winter Mornings collection, you’ll see those weight notes beside each design, along with simple sewing suggestions to help you pick the right base. It’s our way of bringing back a bit of that in-store conversation we used to have across the cutting table.
A Free Printable for Your Sewing Corner
To make things easier, we’ve created a Fabric Weight Conversion & Usage Chart—a one-page reference that shows GSM and ounce ranges, plus the kinds of projects each fabric type suits best. You can print it, pin it in your sewing room, and keep it handy for those late-night browsing sessions when “add to cart” looks just a little too tempting. Because even if we can’t touch every fabric anymore, we can still choose with confidence—and sew pieces that feel just right in the hand and the home.
Fabric Weight Conversion & Usage Chart
A handy reference for choosing the right fabric for your projects
Fabric Type
Typical GSM
Typical oz/yd²
Best Uses
Voile / Lawn / Gauze
70–100 GSM
2–3 oz/yd²
Lightweight blouses, dresses, linings, curtains, scarves
Cotton / Poplin / Linen Blend
130–200 GSM
4–6 oz/yd²
Tea towels, aprons, napkins, quilts, shirts, skirts
Twill / Canvas / Denim / Duck Cloth
250+ GSM
8+ oz/yd²
Totes, placemats, upholstery, work aprons, cushion covers
Tips for Using This Chart
• GSM (grams per square meter) and ounces per square yard both measure fabric density—the higher the number, the heavier and sturdier the cloth.
• When shopping online, check listings for these numbers to estimate feel and drape.
• Keep this chart near your sewing machine or computer for quick reference before ordering fabric.
Created by TrueWoven
Onceandfuturehomestead.com