Why It’s So Hard to Find Ethically Made 100% Cotton Fabric—and Why I Keep Looking

When I first began building TrueWoven, I had a clear vision in my heart—even if the path was anything but clear. I wanted to offer beautiful fabrics with timeless, country charm. That part came easily. But I also wanted those fabrics to be made from natural fibers—cotton and linen, mostly—and to be ethically produced from start to finish. No compromises.

It didn’t take long before I realized just how difficult that would be.

We live in a time when “natural,” “sustainable,” and “ethical” are popular marketing terms. They show up on product tags, in social media bios, and on websites full of soft lighting and earthy tones. But behind the labels and the curated imagery, it’s often hard to find out what these words really mean. When it comes to fabric, especially 100% cotton fabric, the challenges are layered—like a patchwork quilt whose back you can’t quite examine.

The Trouble with Labels

Let’s start with cotton. It seems so wholesome, doesn’t it? A plant grown in the dirt, spun into cloth by skilled hands. We’ve been using it for thousands of years. But today’s cotton industry is a complicated web of industrial farming, chemical processing, and global supply chains that stretch across continents—often with very little transparency.

Some cotton fabrics are labeled “organic,” which is a great first step. It means the cotton wasn’t grown with harmful pesticides or genetically modified seed. But that label doesn’t always tell us how the workers who planted, harvested, and processed that cotton were treated. Were they paid a fair wage? Were they working in safe conditions? Were children involved in any part of the process? Organic doesn’t always mean ethical.

Other companies focus on labor practices—but only for certain parts of the chain. A mill might guarantee fair working conditions for their weavers, for example, but buy their cotton from farms where labor practices are anything but fair. And unless the company has full traceability—meaning they know exactly where each step of the process happened—it’s nearly impossible to verify that a fabric is truly ethical.

Then there’s the issue of blends. Many companies tout their “eco-friendly” fabrics, but when you look closer, you find a mix of cotton and polyester, or “recycled fibers” that include synthetics. These fabrics might feel nice in the hand, but they’re often less breathable, harder to recycle, and more likely to shed microplastics into the environment.

For me, 100% natural fibers—cotton or linen—are non-negotiable. I want fabric that’s breathable, safe to live with, and kind to the earth. But finding that, made ethically, is a far more complex task than it seems.

What Ethical Really Means

Over time, I began looking for third-party certifications that go beyond just surface-level claims. The GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) label became one of my most trusted markers. Not only does it ensure the cotton is organic, but it also includes social criteria—prohibiting child labor, requiring fair wages, safe working conditions, and clean water standards. That’s real accountability.

Another helpful certification is OEKO-TEX® Standard 100. It doesn’t focus on how the cotton is grown, but it does certify that the final fabric is free from harmful substances. That matters deeply—especially when fabrics are used for children’s clothing, bedding, or in homes where health and wellness are a priority.

I also look for companies that clearly state their labor practices—not just in vague terms like “ethical” or “sustainable,” but with real transparency. Do they publish where their cotton comes from? Can they trace their supply chain? Do they work with mills that are audited regularly for labor compliance? These are the questions that help me decide who to partner with.

Why This Matters So Much

For some, these details may seem like overthinking. After all, isn’t fabric just fabric?

But I believe the story behind what we buy matters deeply. It’s not just about thread count or design—though those things are important too. It’s about people. The hands that plant the seed. The workers who tend the fields and gather the cotton. The dyers and weavers who turn raw fiber into something usable, something beautiful.

When we choose fabric, we are choosing whose story we want to include in our homes. I want that story to be one of dignity, fairness, and care.

As a small business owner, I know my impact is modest in the grand scheme. But I also know that every yard of fabric I choose represents a vote—for clean farming, for honest labor, for a more thoughtful way of doing business. And for those who sew, create, and make things with love—your hands are the next step in that story. I want to offer materials you can feel good about, inside and out.

The TrueWoven Standard

At TrueWoven, every fabric is chosen with great care. If it’s cotton, it’s 100% cotton—never blended, never compromised. Many of our fabrics come with GOTS or OEKO-TEX certification, and we continue to seek suppliers who go the extra mile in traceability and fair labor.

We don’t carry everything under the sun. That’s intentional. We keep our collections small so we can stand behind them fully. Whether it’s a ticking stripe, a delicate floral, or a rustic solid, I want to know where it came from—and that no one was harmed in its making.

And the prints? I design them myself.

Every print you see in the TrueWoven collection has been designed by me, right here at home. I spend hours researching historical patterns—poring over grain sack motifs, vintage florals, old ticking stripes, and hand-stitched heirlooms from decades past. I’m drawn to the quiet beauty of older textiles, the kind that once lived in kitchen drawers, linen cupboards, and homestead bedrooms. These were fabrics that didn’t shout—they whispered comfort, utility, and care.

But I don’t just recreate the past—I reimagine it. Each design combines the heart of old-world craftsmanship with fresh, thoughtful updates. I choose classic, enduring colors and pair them with minimalist layouts that fit beautifully into modern cottage homes. The result is fabric that feels both rooted and current—easy to live with, lovely to look at, and designed to last. These patterns are more than decorative; they’re a continuation of stories that matter.

Still Learning, Still Growing

This journey isn’t over. I’m still learning, asking hard questions, and refining the way we source and offer fabrics. The more I know, the more I realize how much more there is to uncover.

I don’t pretend to have it all figured out. But I can promise you this: I will never stop seeking better. Better fibers. Better practices. Better stories. Fabric that feels good in your hands—and sits right on your heart.

Want to see what I’ve found so far?

Visit the TrueWoven Fabric Collection to explore ethically made, 100% cotton and Belgian linen fabrics that reflect our values of quality, simplicity, and kindness.